Mixing hair dye and developer correctly is crucial for achieving your desired hair color results. Using the right proportions ensures even color coverage and penetration into the hair shaft. So how exactly should you measure out developer when coloring your hair? This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about measuring developer for hair dye.
What Is Developer and Why Do You Need It?
Developer, also called oxidizing agent or hydrogen peroxide, is a liquid that you mix with permanent and demi-permanent hair dyes. It comes in different volumes, such as 10, 20, 30, and 40 volume.
Developer serves several important purposes:
It opens up the cuticles on your hair so the color pigments can penetrate the strands better.
It lifts your natural hair pigment so the dye can deposit properly. More lifting power is needed for lighter shades.
It activates the color molecules and allows them to deposit inside the hair shaft for longer lasting results.
Without developer, the hair dye wouldn’t be able to permeate the hair optimally and would mostly stain the outside of the strands. The color would quickly fade away after a few washes.
Measuring Tips for Hair Dye Developer
Follow these tips when measuring out developer for your hair dye:
Use the Recommended Mixing Ratio
Hair dye packages provide a recommended developer mixing ratio, which is typically 1 part dye to 2 parts developer.
As a general guideline:
For 2 oz of hair dye, use 4 oz of developer.
For 1 oz of hair dye, use 2 oz of developer.
Stick to the advised mixing ratio for best results. Using too much or too little developer can impact the color outcome.
Adjust for Hair Length and Thickness
The mixing ratio may need tweaking based on your hair length and thickness:
For short, thin hair: Use a 1:1 ratio.
For short, thick hair: Use a 1:1.5 ratio.
For medium, thin hair: Use a 1:1.5 ratio.
For medium, thick hair: Use a 1:2 ratio.
For long, thin hair: Use a 1:2 ratio.
For long, thick hair: Use a 1:2.5 ratio.
More developer is needed to sufficiently saturate and penetrate thicker or longer hair.
Weigh with a Digital Scale
The most accurate way to measure hair dye and developer is by weight using a digital kitchen, jewelry, or food scale.
To use a scale:
Place an empty plastic bowl on the scale and press “Tare” or “Zero” to reset it to zero.
Weigh out the required amount of hair dye into the bowl. Remove the bowl, reset to zero.
Weigh out the correct amount of developer and add it to the dye.
Mix well before applying to hair.
Weighing the products ensures you get the precise mixing ratio for consistent results every time.
Use Measuring Spoons
If you don’t have a scale, use plastic measuring spoons to portion out the hair dye and developer.
Make sure to thoroughly rinse the spoons after each use. The measurements are as follows:
- 1 oz = 2 tablespoons
- 2 oz = 1/4 cup
- 4 oz = 1/2 cup
Stainless steel spoons could interact with the developer and alter the hair color, so plastic is best.
Use Measuring Cups
Another option is to use plastic or glass measuring cups to measure out the needed amounts of dye and developer. Ensure you thoroughly clean the cups between uses.
Follow Manufacturer’s Instructions
While the standard mixing ratio is 1:2, some hair dye brands may recommend using different proportions. Always check the instructions on the hair color box and follow them closely.
The manufacturer takes into account the unique formulation of the hair dye and provides the ideal developer ratio for their product.
How to Use Different Volumes of Developer
The volume of developer you select depends on your desired color results:
10 volume developer – Best for depositing color without lifting. Use for touching up roots or going darker.
20 volume developer – Standard developer for most permanent hair dyes. Lifts up to 2 levels to allow dye to deposit.
30 volume developer – Higher lifting power to lighten hair 2-3 levels. Use for moderate lightening.
40 volume developer – Maximum lifting of 4+ levels. Only use for high-lift blonde colors. Can be damaging if misused.
Higher volumes contain more peroxide to lighten hair more dramatically. Always pick the volume recommended by the hair color brand.
Measuring Tips for Specific Hair Dye Types
Certain hair dye formulas require special measuring considerations:
Toners
Mixing ratio: 1 part toner to 2 parts 10 volume developer
Needs lower developer to avoid over-lightening already bleached hair
Bleach
Mixing ratio: 1 part lightener to 2 parts 20 or 30 volume developer
Higher developer lifts more underlying pigment for maximum lightening
Permanent Root Touch-Up
Mixing ratio: Same as all-over color but use half the amount of dye and developer since you’re only covering regrowth
Apply immediately to roots only and time according to grey coverage needed
Highlift Blonde Hair Dye
Mixing ratio: 1 part highlift color to 2 parts 40 volume developer
Needs maximum lifting power of 40 volume for drastic lightening
Perform strand test to check hair can tolerate high developer without damage
Colored Hair Gloss
Mixing ratio: 1 part gloss to 2 parts 10 volume developer
Gloss contains lower peroxide to add shine without further lightening
How to Mix Hair Dye and Developer Properly
Follow these pro tips for flawless mixing and application:
Always wear gloves to protect your hands from stains.
Mix the dye and developer in a plastic or glass bowl using a plastic whisk or brush. Metal can react with developer.
Stir thoroughly until the mixture is smooth and homogeneous.
Section clean, dry hair into four quadrants and start applying color at the back.
If doing roots only, apply dye to regrowth first.
Saturate all sections fully, focusing on the ends.
Use a tint brush to color small sections and ensure even coverage.
Time according to manufacturer’s instructions based on desired results.
Rinse hair well, then shampoo and condition as usual.
Proper mixing and application leads to vibrant, lasting color with minimal damage.
What Happens If You Use Too Much Or Too Little Developer?
Getting the developer ratio right is crucial for color accuracy and hair health:
Too Much Developer
Using excessive amounts of developer can damage and dry out your hair. It exposes the strands to high levels of peroxide which causes oxidation and cuticle damage.
Too much developer can also lead to hot roots and banding since the color processes much faster at the regrowth. Over-lightening of the ends is another risk.
Too Little Developer
Not adding enough developer means the color won’t develop fully. You may get poor grey coverage, patchy results, muted tones, and uneven porosity across strands.
The dye may mostly stain the outside of hairs rather than penetrating properly for long-lasting color. Using too little developer is especially problematic with permanent rather than demi-permanent dyes.
How to Store Leftover Dye and Developer
To avoid waste, you can save any unused hair dye and developer for future use:
Store opened dye in an airtight container in a cool, dry place away from light. Permanent dye lasts 6-12 months, while semi-permanent dye lasts 3-6 months.
Transfer extra mixed developer into an airtight container or bottle and store for 2-3 months.
Keep the hair dye box with instructions handy so you know the mixing ratio next time.
Never store dye or developer in the fridge or freezer. This can alter the chemical composition.
Always perform a skin patch test with old dye to check it hasn’t expired and the chemicals are still viable.
The Takeaway
When coloring your hair at home, accurately measuring out the developer is just as important as choosing the right shade. Develop a solid understanding of how to properly gauge developer amounts based on hair specifics and desired results.
Carefully follow the recommended dye-to-developer mixing ratios and application techniques for flawless, long-lasting hair color with minimal damage. With the right know-how, you can master the art of mixing and measuring hair dye like a pro!